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I learned that the south Indian blend podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 2

400g waxy potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons mild oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.